Cambodia

The briefing

Cambodia rewards the traveler who stays long enough to get past Angkor Wat - extraordinary as it is - into the Cardamom Mountains' old-growth jungle, the river town calm of Kampot, and the Gulf of Thailand coast that hasn't been packaged into a resort circuit yet. Angkor is the superlative that holds up: the largest pre-industrial city ever discovered, its temple complex covering 400 square kilometres of recovered jungle. The early-morning Angkor Wat sunrise reflection in the moat is genuinely worth the alarm - not because of the light alone, but because the complex at 5:30am has a completely different quality from the 10am version, when the tour groups arrive and the silence disappears. Book the scarce piece first in Cambodia; everything else can wait a week.

Angkor is the superlative that holds up: the largest pre-industrial city ever discovered, its temple complex covering 400 square kilometres of recovered jungle. The early-morning Angkor Wat sunrise reflection in the moat is genuinely worth the alarm - not because of the light alone, but because the complex at 5:30am has a completely different quality from the 10am version, when the tour groups arrive and the silence disappears. Ta Prohm's trees growing through the walls is the other great image and holds the emotional charge even with the crowds.

The Cardamom Mountains are the surprise: one of mainland Southeast Asia's last intact rainforest systems, with a Wildlife Alliance ranger program that allows visitors to join patrol routes and encounter everything the forest holds - gibbons, sun bears, muntjac, slow lorises - under the guidance of local naturalists who have been protecting it for twenty years.

How to get there

Gateway airports: REP, PNH. Build the rest of the trip around the arrival.

Book first

Flights - REP, PNH → Stay at the forest edge - the early start is the whole point in Cambodia → Operator - park or jungle permit window after the flight