Iceland in winter is an entirely different country from its summer version — darker, starker, more demanding, and offering experiences the August tourist cannot access: ice cave interiors, northern lights above frozen waterfalls, and the Westfjords with virtually no other travelers.
The Vatnajökull ice caves form each November and remain accessible until March or April — crystal-blue ice chambers carved by meltwater, entered in small groups with crampons and a guide. Each year they are different; each year they are extraordinary.
The Westfjords peninsula is Iceland as it was before the tourist circuit existed. Dynjandi waterfall drops 100 m in multiple tiers down a remote cliff; Látrabjarg is the westernmost point in Europe and home to the most accessible puffin colony on the planet. The roads require a 4WD and the drive is slow — which is entirely the point.
In-depth guide
The Norwegian Fjords & North Adventure Guide
6 min read