The forecast was wrong for three of the four days on the fjords. The wrong kind of wrong — wetter, not drier. We went anyway, which is always the right call when you've come this far.
Rain in Norway does something interesting to the landscape. The waterfalls, already impressive, become violent. The green of the valley walls deepens. The mist that sits in the fjord at morning turns the whole thing into a painting you wouldn't quite believe if someone showed it to you.
Good waterproofs are not optional gear in Norway — they're the difference between the trip working and not working. The kind that cover you completely, not the kind that look technical in a shop but let water in after an hour.
The Trolltunga hike in rain with full cloud was still extraordinary. We could not see the fjord below. We stood at the rock. We took the photograph. It looked like standing on the edge of nothing, which felt exactly right.
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